So, I'm pondering a nice hike across the Pyrenees via the peak of Monte Perdido.
I was kinda suckered in by the photography on the Ordesa National Park wikipedia page, and decided it had to be visited. I've not been able to find any obvious hiking guides for the area, so these pages collect my notes.
The current plan is for an extended weekend (3-4 nights) hike for a reasonable sum of money (lets aim for £300) to include transport and food. It is hoped not more than two or three days need be taken off work, which is the most important thing for most of us!
Flights
Toulouse and Lourdes in France, Zaragoza and Barcelona in Spain
Start
The trek could begin at Bielsa and end at Gavarnie.
Alternatively, the traditional route begins at Torla. Ibformation about getting to Torla (and Monte Perdido itself) is at this summitpost page. Useful stuff! This route may of course be busier, but it ascends the Ordesa valley which looks pretty amazing. A high route that runs along the cliffs overlooking the valley would be well worth it. It is worth noting that camping in the valley appears to be forbidden (see spanish-side camping restrictions below).
I guess the easiest way to get to Bielsa is by bus/coach. Whether it is more sensible to fly to spain and get a bus to the town from that side, or fly in and out of France and arrange busses from there is unclear. This hike report mentions that you'll probably want to get a taxi to the trailhead from Bielsa.
Routes
All routes will go via Lago Helgado, which lies in Cilindro pass between Monte Perdido itself and Cilindro de Marbore.
Cilindro
Some investingation shows that Cilindro might be a slightly more interesting peak to climb. There is a small additional challenge in the form of a 20-30m grade 2 scramble up a wall at part way up the ascent; this does not need climbing gear (if the weather is good) though a safety rope wouldn't go amiss, especially as we'll be carrying bags.
From Cilindro we can travel north west along the ridge to Marbore peak on the edge of the Cirque de Gavarnie which should have some pretty awesome views. The exit is south west then south east to join the high track from Lago Helgado towards the Brèche de Roland.
Cuello de Astazu
Dropping off Marbore to the north will involve some tricky descents... grade 2 again, probably requiring a rope and perhaps a little abseil. The descent into the Cirque de Gavarnie will be much steeper, and the route will not take us into teh cirque itself but skirt along the west wall for some kilometres until we reach the Pyrenees Haute Route.
Monte Perdido
Perdido may be ascended from the south (which may be a bit of a scramble) or from the north west starting at Lago Helgado which is the standard route and likely to be much simpler.
Either way, the descent will be via the lake, heading south out of Cilindro pass and then west along the high track towards the Brèche de Roland.
Brecha de Tucarroya
Exiting north east from Cilindro pass will take us down and across the Balcon de Pineta, with a view down into Pineta valley towards Bielsa which represents one possible entrance and exit route.
Walking north across the Balcon towards the gap in the mountains will take us out into France on a steep descent and then back up onto the Pyrenees Haute Route with view across another big cirque.
Brèche de Roland
West along the Spanish side of the ridge from Perdido will eventually take us towards the Brèche de Roland which is the other walking route down into France.
Finish
Escaping from Garernie looks to be inconvenient... apparently there are only two busses on a monday outside of peak season, and they'll get us to Luz Saint Saveur from which it should be easier to get ccoaches/trains/busses whatever to escape back to the airport.
Depending on time and exhaustion, hiking down the valley towards Luz is a possibility, but this could take another day.
Weather
June til October is the best time to do the trip, as there will be a minimum of snow and ice on the peaks. July and August are peak season, and some of the routes may be quite busy and the refuges will be packed.
Ordesa_y_Monte_Perdido_National_Park_Huesca_Province_Aragon-Vacations.html">This site claims surprisingly mild temperatures, but doesn't mention altitude. It could conceivably be a good 10 degrees colder on the summit, even without any wind.
There is a glacier on the north face of Monte Perdido itself, though only a little one. There may well be snow on the routes to the peak all year round. Ice has been reported on the summit routes as late as june. Snowshoes and crampons may be required during late spring... this ascent was done in april and needed crampons and iceaxes, though below 2000m there was no snow. The first snows can be expected in october.
Mountain biker weather can be found here though it isn't hugely useful for anyone going over the top, it does mention snowline altitude.
The Brèche de Roland marks the normal route from Gavarnie to Monte Perdido, and is at 2800m. An alternate pass in the east, the Brecha de Tucarroya is at 2600m.
Sleeping
Camping would be ideal, but there are two limits on this. One, we might not want to do this when its really cold! Two, both the Ordesa y Monte Perdido national park and the Pyrenees national park have rules about camping.
The spanish side limits camping to certain areas and above certain altitudes; these are detailed below in rules and regs. For the french side:
Camping is forbidden (tents up for several days) but bivouac is allowed (tents up at night only) if you are at least one hour's walk from any road access. Some sites are equipped with bivouac areas like the Néouvielle Nature Reserve, and near certain refuges.
There are three potential refuses we could sleep in:
- Refugio de Goriz
- Refugio del Sarradets
- Refugio de Tucarroya
The first two are likely to be busy and may need booking, though (at least for Goriz) you are allowed to camp outside. They will have water and may have food available for purchase. Tucarroya is unmanned, and may require getting access by some means though it isn't at all clear if it is locked or who might supply keys, if indeed it is even possible to use it without being a member of the right club.
Water
The Ordesa valley and Gavarnie cirque have streams. There is a large lake below Tucarroya, and a small one between Monte Perdido and Cilindro. The Goriz and Sarradets refuges are both likely to have water supplies.
Maps
IGN Top25 1748OT covers the section between Luz Saint Saveur and the border which is along the top of the Garvenie cirque, a bit north of the peak. It would only do for about half of the walk. A copy of the 'Ordesa y Monte Perdido Map and Hiking Guide' is winging its way to me and covers all the area we're likely to cross, but is only 1:40000 instead of the 1:25000 of the Top25 map. No better mapping seems to exist for the spanish side that I can see.
Rules and Regs
Spanish side:
(summarised at summitpost)
The main regulations to be enforced on the spanish side of the border (Real Decreto PRUG 409/1995)are the following:
- Free camping is forbidden. It's permited to vivy or camp using a tent lower than 1.3 m/ 4 ft 3.25 in, wich would be taken down at dawn. This practice is allowed above these heights:
Ordesa area: 2.100 m (Clavijas de Soaso)
Añisclo area: 1.800 m (Fuen Blanca)
Escuaín area: 1.800 m (La Ralla)
Pineta area: 2.500 m (Balcón de Pineta / Bolán de Marmorés)
- Sports aside hiking, climbing, ski-mountaineering and speleology are forbidden.
- The sale of commercial products is not allowed
- It's forbidden to swim in the rivers, streams and lakes